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A Break From the Schoolwork 

lizzpeterson

Update on last weekend’s surf clinic:  The founder of AmpSurf was nominated as a CNN Hero.  Click here forvthe link to the video and story. 

 

The AmpSurf Clinic inspired a few of my classmates and I to learn to surf.  Last weekend we decided it was time we learned.  With our wetsuits in hand, we headed off to the beach.  We met with a few of my friends from last semester: two Southern California natives, one of which is a lifeguard.  (Can it get any safer with a personal lifeguard?)

 

We had a quick safety lesson on land then headed out to surf in the biggest waves I have ever seen.  These waves looked like the “black diamond” waves.  I kept searching the beach for the “bunny hill” waves, but none were found.  Apparently the giant waves were surf-able because the entire horizon was filled with surfers.  So I headed out into the ocean to be a surfer extraordinaire like the surfers from the previous weekend. 

 

The first wave I came upon while paddling out knocked me clean off the surfboard.  Surfer extraordinaire no more.  Wipeouts were pretty much the trend of the day.  Oh well.  I got lots of practice paddling in the water and creating stylish wipeouts.  I also learned a few valuable lessons.

 

  1. Surfers get up early on a Saturday.  (Parking lot was full before 7:30am).
  2. Swimming dolphins=no sharks.
  3. Wetsuits are one of the greatest inventions.
  4. Balance is important while paddling.  Very important.
  5. Just because one goes to the gym does not mean said person is already in shape to surf.
  6. There are fins on the bottom of surfboards.  They are called ‘skegs.’
  7. Skegs hurt.
  8. Every surfer falls off their board…at least once.

 

I can’t wait to get back out there and try again.  Maybe this time I’ll be able to stay on the board “through the wash” and get to the “outside” without wiping out.  In the meantime, I’ll work on my upper body strength with the transfemoral ischial containment modifications!



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